The radical shifts in craft beer over the past two decades have become downright dizzying. Where craft beer was once defined by an independent fervor for producing full-flavored brews across a wide range of aromas, textures, and tastes, today’s glut of hazy IPAs, fruited sours, and pastry stouts have called that initial aim into question. Although nearly 8,000 new American breweries opened in that time span, the true diversity of beer styles has dwindled. It would be shocking if it weren’t all too familiar.
From a Push for Variety to a Push for More Profitable Trends
As a beer buyer, I remember having to beg distributors to carry craft beers back in the day. The market was miniscule, and all we had was a niche group of brewers, publicans, beer writers, and enthusiasts to rely on for continued support. We sought to convince wholesalers, importers, retailers, restaurant buyers, and our guests that while small-batch brews driven by ingredients and process were going to be more expensive, they were also always going to be worth it. We were delivering new, high-quality experiences through craft beer.
That initial crew of zealots—those who brewed and served the kinds of beer they wanted to drink, even when profit seemed like it would always be just out of reach—ultimately succeeded. Craft beer went from gathering dust in specialty shops to being de rigueur for every restaurant, bar, and retailer. Seemingly, every neighborhood needed and could support a taproom. Craft beer became big business.