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To Dial in Your Bitterness, Zoom in on the Science

In today’s hop-forward beers, whirlpool additions contribute many of the IBUs—yet the results are less clear-cut than adding to the boil. Research—some new, some not so new—may provide direction.

Stan Hieronymus Jan 16, 2025 - 12 min read

To Dial in Your Bitterness, Zoom in on the Science Primary Image

Photo: Irina Gutyryak & Matt Graves

Several years ago, judges at a beer competition in Peru noticed that many entries in the IPA category lacked the level of bitterness they expected. Talking to brewers who made those beers, the judges learned that many of those IPAs were brewed at higher altitudes.

The brewers hadn’t adjusted their recipes to compensate for reduced isomerization at lower boiling temperatures.

Recently, Roadhouse Brewing in Jackson Hole, Wyoming, collaborated on a series of Kush IPAs with multiple breweries. The fifth brewery to participate—Half Acre in Chicago—was the first “to ask me about altitude,” says Roadhouse brewmaster Max Shafer. Jackson Hole is 6,200 feet (1,890 meters) above sea level.

This isn’t a topic that shows up in most brewing manuals, nor one that most brewers would have a reason to talk about, but the information is available. John Palmer, one of those judges in Peru and publications director of the Master Brewers Association of the Americas, followed up with a paper in the MBAA’s Technical Quarterly examining the impact of lower temperatures—whether because of higher altitudes or the whirlpool—on utilization.

“A lot of guys don’t [have time to] read all the literature,” says John Paul Maye, a consultant and former technical director at Hopsteiner. He knows because he wrote about humulinone formation in hops and the implications for dry-hopped beers for Technical Quarterly in 2016. He still gets blank looks when he asks brewers, “Do you know about humulinones?”

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